SECTION # 2:  TURTLES:

 

BASIC CARE OF:

WESTERN or ORNATE and THREE TOED BOX TURTLES

(Terepene ornata)

     This is a species of terrestrial or land turtle. They can NOT swim. The DO need to be able to dig. They are native to the USA and Colorado, and are capable of hibernating or "bromating", IF circumstances are correct.

HOUSING:  One or two turtles can be kept in a habitat 4' long by 2' wide and 1 ½ high. This habitat may be constructed of glass or plexi-glass, or even plastic. This size allows the animals enough room to exercise and be healthy, while preventing them from climbing out and becoming lost or falling on their backs and dying. These materials are also non absorbant and easy to clean and sanitize when the need arises. DO not build their habitat of wood, because it will hold too much moisture and grow bacteria which can kill them. Larger habitats are better, this is the minimum size. Ideally an outdoor habitat would be desirable, and would offer more space and a more natural setting, but that is not something everyone has to offer.

SUBSTRATE:  It is crucial to the health of these animals that they have a naturalistic substrate in which they can dig and exercise. This substrate should be made of a mixture of reptile safe bark, sand, potting soil (without fertilizer) and smooth gravel, and should be between 4-6" deep. Turtles do poop , and the best way to keep this set up in good shape it so put live worms and live plants safe or the turtles to eat inside the habitat before placing the animals in it. Dandelions and the morning glory type vining plant growing wild all over Colorado are both very good plants for the animals to eat.

     You will need to add more worms and plants most likely about once a month because the turtles will eat both the worms and the plants and this is necessary to their diet. Hamburger should not be given to these animals it is too high in fat, and too low in other nutrients. Turtles also like meal worms, which can be offered along with bits of vegetables and fruits on saucers once or twice a week. Various types of hay should be available continuously as well.

FEEDING:  In addition to the above mentioned food items, here are several other things good to cut into smaller pieces and offer to the turtles:

Collard greens, Mustard greens, Turnip greens, green beans, green peas, carrots, straw berries, apples, pears, squash, green onions, cilantro, red grapes, alfalfa (hay or sprouts), timothy hay, clover (fresh or hay). Any of the fresh items left at the end of the day should be thrown away.

DECORATION:  Although turtles have shells, which are part of their bodies, with their back bones being grown into them, they like places to hide as well, and in this case their shells do not count to them. You can use either wooden hiding set ups, or else plastic dish tubs with the ends cut out rounded and the cut edges melted smooth. Larger flat type rocks are also nice since the turtles like to climb on things. Bear in mind that turtles will climb on each other, rocks, hides...and so you will want to be sure that anything that might allow them to get high enough to reach the edges and escape their habitat are kept away from the sides of the habitat.

LIGHTING:  Turtles, as with all other animals need a day and night cycle on their lighting. This means that during the day time they should have their lights on and at night they should have darkness. Turtles REQUIRE UVB light in order to be able to get the nutrients they need out of their food and be healthy. UVB bulbs are available in a variety of styles and sizes. The main thing to remember is that after 3 months of use the UVB is not being produced by the bulb any longer even though the bulb still produces light, and so you will need to replace the bulb in 3 months. If you select a style of bulb and fixture which is compatible with other light fixtures in your home you will be able to use the bulb for light elsewhere even after having to change it for the turtles, and save money by not having to buy another as soon for the house. :) You can set the lights on a timer for the turtles if you like, or just do it the old fashioned way.

TEMPERATURE:  During the Summer the air temperature and the additional heat from their lights will probably be enough, but if you are not hibernating, (Bromating) the animals, which is not necessary, although it can be done with this species, then for cold months I recommend a water bed heating pad underneath the tank, water bed pads are easier to regulate to produce the right amount of heat under the tank and soil than other pads. With a habitat for one or two animals a pad for a twin bed works well, though you will have to let the place selling it to you think it is for a bed or they will not be allowed to sell it to you. A Note of care here, using a waterbed pad is safest with the plexi-glass tank, and not a plastic tub, which might melt. You will need to water plants in the habitat more often with the heat underneath on. The habitat is best kept between 80F-85F.

HIBERNATION:  IF you choose to hibernate your turtle, you will need to be careful and keep a close watch over it. A basement or garage work well for this. They will need to be kept in a location where the temperature can be kept at a constant 45F. Until the temperature is at this level you MUST NOT attempt to hibernate them. This may not happen until December so watch. Once this temperature has been achieved, you will need to do the following in preparation:

1) Stop feeding the turtles to be hibernated.

2) Reduce the temperature where the turtles are normally kept a little at a time.

3) Soak the turtles in shallow (2-3") of warm water every other day to encourage them to empty their digestive tracts.

4) Finally get a large plastic tub, fill it with leaves and other mulch (no cedar or pine they are toxic to reptiles), these should be slightly damp.

     Set the turtles on top, and they will burrow in. Finish filling the box 90% of the way with more mulch to retain humidity.

     Check on the turtles once a week, if any of them repeatedly come to the surface they may be ill and should be taken out and replaced into their normal habitat for the Winter so they will not die. A trip to the vet is also a good idea. PLEASE note that there are other species of turtles from other countries which CAN NOT hibernate and check before trying it with other species!

     Dig them out every 3 weeks and weight each of them and check for any signs or possible respiratory infection (bubbles or raspy breathing) if they show signs get them to the vet immediately or they will die horribly in pain. If they show a noticeable weight loss also contact the vet. Do this check as quickly and quietly as possible so they are not disturbed any more than avoidable, then as long as they are healthy replace them in the same location and position as you found them and recover them.

     Nine weeks is a sufficient hibernation period for these animals, and again it is not necessary to hibernate them unless you are planning on breeding them, in which case be prepared to incubate the eggs and keep any hatchlings for the first several years. It is ILLEGAL to sell or give away, or to own unless you are the breeder or a licensed rescue or shelter, any turtle less than 4" from the front to the back of the top shell.

     IF you do hibernate your turtle, you will need to be careful in bringing them out of hibernation too, warm them slowly, and after they are totally warmed up,( room temperature for hours or even a day) soak them in warm water for a while before offering them food.

OTHER:   You can take your turtle outside on the lawn, but never leave them unattended, this is how they get lost. They move much more quickly than most people think, and dig and burrow fast as well. Outside on warm days they can eat fresh lawn plants and even a few bugs if you make sure they are not getting lost or being attacked by dogs desiring to chew the bone of their shell. Always keep them in sight when outdoors!

     Always make sure that you have a qualified reptile veterinarian near by and the phone number handy. Most vets are not qualified to work on or with reptiles, so check ahead of time.

     If you have any questions or need any advice feel free to contact me by e-mail or phone. Can not afford to return long distance calls, so if your area code is other than 303 or 720 and you do not catch me by phone please try e-mail.

Barbara A Huggins

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SECTION # 2:  TURTLES:

 

BASIC CARE OF:

WESTERN or ORNATE and THREE TOED BOX TURTLES

(Terepene ornata)

     This is a species of terrestrial or land turtle. They can NOT swim. The DO need to be able to dig. They are native to the USA and Colorado, and are capable of hibernating or "bromating", IF circumstances are correct.

HOUSING:  One or two turtles can be kept in a habitat 4' long by 2' wide and 1 ½ high. This habitat may be constructed of glass or plexi-glass, or even plastic. This size allows the animals enough room to exercise and be healthy, while preventing them from climbing out and becoming lost or falling on their backs and dying. These materials are also non absorbant and easy to clean and sanitize when the need arises. DO not build their habitat of wood, because it will hold too much moisture and grow bacteria which can kill them. Larger habitats are better, this is the minimum size. Ideally an outdoor habitat would be desirable, and would offer more space and a more natural setting, but that is not something everyone has to offer.

SUBSTRATE:  It is crucial to the health of these animals that they have a naturalistic substrate in which they can dig and exercise. This substrate should be made of a mixture of reptile safe bark, sand, potting soil (without fertilizer) and smooth gravel, and should be between 4-6" deep. Turtles do poop , and the best way to keep this set up in good shape it so put live worms and live plants safe or the turtles to eat inside the habitat before placing the animals in it. Dandelions and the morning glory type vining plant growing wild all over Colorado are both very good plants for the animals to eat.

     You will need to add more worms and plants most likely about once a month because the turtles will eat both the worms and the plants and this is necessary to their diet. Hamburger should not be given to these animals it is too high in fat, and too low in other nutrients. Turtles also like meal worms, which can be offered along with bits of vegetables and fruits on saucers once or twice a week. Various types of hay should be available continuously as well.

FEEDING:  In addition to the above mentioned food items, here are several other things good to cut into smaller pieces and offer to the turtles:

Collard greens, Mustard greens, Turnip greens, green beans, green peas, carrots, straw berries, apples, pears, squash, green onions, cilantro, red grapes, alfalfa (hay or sprouts), timothy hay, clover (fresh or hay). Any of the fresh items left at the end of the day should be thrown away.

DECORATION:  Although turtles have shells, which are part of their bodies, with their back bones being grown into them, they like places to hide as well, and in this case their shells do not count to them. You can use either wooden hiding set ups, or else plastic dish tubs with the ends cut out rounded and the cut edges melted smooth. Larger flat type rocks are also nice since the turtles like to climb on things. Bear in mind that turtles will climb on each other, rocks, hides...and so you will want to be sure that anything that might allow them to get high enough to reach the edges and escape their habitat are kept away from the sides of the habitat.

LIGHTING:  Turtles, as with all other animals need a day and night cycle on their lighting. This means that during the day time they should have their lights on and at night they should have darkness. Turtles REQUIRE UVB light in order to be able to get the nutrients they need out of their food and be healthy. UVB bulbs are available in a variety of styles and sizes. The main thing to remember is that after 3 months of use the UVB is not being produced by the bulb any longer even though the bulb still produces light, and so you will need to replace the bulb in 3 months. If you select a style of bulb and fixture which is compatible with other light fixtures in your home you will be able to use the bulb for light elsewhere even after having to change it for the turtles, and save money by not having to buy another as soon for the house. :) You can set the lights on a timer for the turtles if you like, or just do it the old fashioned way.

TEMPERATURE:  During the Summer the air temperature and the additional heat from their lights will probably be enough, but if you are not hibernating, (Bromating) the animals, which is not necessary, although it can be done with this species, then for cold months I recommend a water bed heating pad underneath the tank, water bed pads are easier to regulate to produce the right amount of heat under the tank and soil than other pads. With a habitat for one or two animals a pad for a twin bed works well, though you will have to let the place selling it to you think it is for a bed or they will not be allowed to sell it to you. A Note of care here, using a waterbed pad is safest with the plexi-glass tank, and not a plastic tub, which might melt. You will need to water plants in the habitat more often with the heat underneath on. The habitat is best kept between 80F-85F.

HIBERNATION:  IF you choose to hibernate your turtle, you will need to be careful and keep a close watch over it. A basement or garage work well for this. They will need to be kept in a location where the temperature can be kept at a constant 45F. Until the temperature is at this level you MUST NOT attempt to hibernate them. This may not happen until December so watch. Once this temperature has been achieved, you will need to do the following in preparation:

1) Stop feeding the turtles to be hibernated.

2) Reduce the temperature where the turtles are normally kept a little at a time.

3) Soak the turtles in shallow (2-3") of warm water every other day to encourage them to empty their digestive tracts.

4) Finally get a large plastic tub, fill it with leaves and other mulch (no cedar or pine they are toxic to reptiles), these should be slightly damp.

     Set the turtles on top, and they will burrow in. Finish filling the box 90% of the way with more mulch to retain humidity.

     Check on the turtles once a week, if any of them repeatedly come to the surface they may be ill and should be taken out and replaced into their normal habitat for the Winter so they will not die. A trip to the vet is also a good idea. PLEASE note that there are other species of turtles from other countries which CAN NOT hibernate and check before trying it with other species!

     Dig them out every 3 weeks and weight each of them and check for any signs or possible respiratory infection (bubbles or raspy breathing) if they show signs get them to the vet immediately or they will die horribly in pain. If they show a noticeable weight loss also contact the vet. Do this check as quickly and quietly as possible so they are not disturbed any more than avoidable, then as long as they are healthy replace them in the same location and position as you found them and recover them.

     Nine weeks is a sufficient hibernation period for these animals, and again it is not necessary to hibernate them unless you are planning on breeding them, in which case be prepared to incubate the eggs and keep any hatchlings for the first several years. It is ILLEGAL to sell or give away, or to own unless you are the breeder or a licensed rescue or shelter, any turtle less than 4" from the front to the back of the top shell.

     IF you do hibernate your turtle, you will need to be careful in bringing them out of hibernation too, warm them slowly, and after they are totally warmed up,( room temperature for hours or even a day) soak them in warm water for a while before offering them food.

OTHER:   You can take your turtle outside on the lawn, but never leave them unattended, this is how they get lost. They move much more quickly than most people think, and dig and burrow fast as well. Outside on warm days they can eat fresh lawn plants and even a few bugs if you make sure they are not getting lost or being attacked by dogs desiring to chew the bone of their shell. Always keep them in sight when outdoors!

     Always make sure that you have a qualified reptile veterinarian near by and the phone number handy. Most vets are not qualified to work on or with reptiles, so check ahead of time.

     If you have any questions or need any advice feel free to contact me by e-mail or phone. Can not afford to return long distance calls, so if your area code is other than 303 or 720 and you do not catch me by phone please try e-mail.

Barbara A Huggins

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SECTION # 3:  AMPHIBIANS:

Basic care for:

Red Eyed Tree Frog

(Agalychnis callidryas)

     This species incredible coordination has earned it the nickname: Monkey Frog.

     The first thing you notice about these beautiful animals is their red eyes. They are nocturnal amphibians. When a red-eyed tree frog becomes bothered while it is sleeping, it opens its eyes and usually the red will scare off its predators. The body is usually green and is splashed with other colors like blues and yellows. The Red-eyed tree frog can change its color with its mood from a darker green to a reddish-brown. They have suction cup orange toes that help them to hang on to leaves. They are also dependant on water for most of their lives. They are from Costa Rica in Central America and in Southern Mexico. Males are usually smaller, about 2 inches in length, while a female may be 3 inches in length. They eat crickets, moths, flies, grass hoppers, and sometimes smaller frogs. The babies eat mostly fruit flies and pin head crickets.

     Reproduction of Red-eyed tree frogs takes place during the rainy season, between October and March. This usually happens near temporary or permanent ponds. Croaking or quivering usually initiates the courtship. Males attache themselves to the backs of females when the females eggs are mature. The female then goes to the underside of a leaf, which is over the water, and she holds on with her suction cup toes. The male fertilizes the eggs and will not leave until all are fertilized. There are normally between 30 and 50 of these small pale eggs. After each clutch of eggs emerges from the female, she must enter the water and fill her bladder with water or the next clutch of eggs will dry up and die. In 5 days the tadpoles wiggle their way down the leaf to the water below. It then takes the tadpoles 75-80 days to turn into frogs.

     Selecting a Red-eyed tree frog can actually be hard. You want to make sure that they are captive bred babies. Captive bred animals are always less stressed than wild caught ones. They don't usually have parasites and will adapt to captivity better. If all you can find are wild caught ones then look for a healthy one. Don't buy one that has any scratches or weird marks on it, or one that is awake in the daytime. These frogs are totally nocturnal, so if you find one awake during the daytime then there is a pretty good chance that there is something wrong with it.

     When you set up a habitat you should do it about two weeks before you get the frogs so that if you need to adjust the temperature or the substrate, you will be able to without harm to your frogs. For one or two frogs you only need a 10 gallon aquarium, but for a group of three or more animals you will need to use at least a 20 gallon extra high aquarium. Remember the higher the aquarium the better. Use a glass top on the aquarium to keep the humidity inside it for the rainy seasons, and a screened top for the dry seasons. Fill the bottom of the tank with 3-4 inches of fresh washed water gravel. Slope the gravel in one corner so that it now looks like a beach, then add de-chlorinated water to about 3 inches depth. Wash the plants of all potting soil if you are going to put them in the water. Philodendrons, and Pothos plants are the best ones for use in this animals habitat since they do well in a water environment. The broad leaves allow the animals places to climb about in a natural manner safely. On top of the higher gravel put down 2 inches of potting soil made specifically for use with African violets, peat moss, and live mosses. On top of that place sticks and branches all around. For lighting purposes you will need one full spectrum or UVB light, this light should be one every day in daytime and off every night for night time.

     Red-eyed tree frogs require 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness. The temperature in their habitat should be 76-85F during the day, and 66-77F at night. Humidity wise during the rainy season the tank should be at 80% humidity, and during the dry season the humidity in the tank should be between50-60%. The tank should be misted 3 times a week during the rainy season, and 1 time a week during the dry season with tap water which has been left sitting open over night to allow the chlorine...to evaporate out of it. Cleaning the tank is a must. You will need to clean it at least once a month, more often if you see any type of white residue on the glass. Remove the frogs to another safe container they can not escape from. Remove all the water, and rinse any of the loose gravel the best that you can with tap water that has set out over night. For the glass above the water line only, take 7 parts water to 1 part vinegar and scrub the glass trying not to get any below the water line, and dry it all off as well as possible. Then replace the loose gravel, and fill the tank back to the water line with tap water that has set out at least over night. Let the habitat sit for a couple of hours to finish air drying to get rid of any fumes from the vinegar, and you can then place your frogs back into their home.

     When feeding the frogs, it is best to start by putting in 3 crickets to each frog every 2-3 days. Be sure to check on them, if they are looking fat give them less food, and if they are looking skinny give them a couple more. You can also set a small dish such as a plastic jar lid inside the tank with meal worms in it.

Contribute by Tom Walsh

Tom is an experienced keeper of many different species of Reptiles and Amphibians

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SECTION # 4: LIZARDS:

Basic care for:

Green Anoles

(Anolis carolinensis)

The Green anole is the most popular and widely kept species of anole. It is the only anole native to the United States. Found throughout Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Tennessee, the Carolinas, and the keys of Florida. It is Diurnal, and arboreal, meaning that it is active during the day and likes high places in the trees. These are relatively small lizards, normally reaching from 5-8 inches in total length from nose to tail tip. Males are slightly larger than females. Both sexes may have dew laps, although the females do not always have them. The males dew laps are usually larger and more vividly colored, from bright white to hot pink in color. Some of these anoles have white zig zag stripes down their backs, this is usually found among the females, though sometimes males may have this marking. This species is also called North American Chameleons because they can change color, although not in the extreme sense that a true chameleon can. While true chameleons change color to blend with their surroundings and in reaction to threats from other animals, the anole changes color due to temperature and emotion only. An anole that is cold will be darker, as it warms up it will become lighter. Anoles that are excited or upset will also change color. In pet stores brown anoles are often mixed in with the green ones and all labeled as green anoles, brown ones can not change to a light green but darker and lighter browns. The care for both however is the same.

     Housing for these animals is relatively simple. A 10 gallon tank will work perfectly for even 10-15 of them. The tank must be clean with fresh water available at all times. Anoles can and will climb the glass, so a snug fitting top on the tank is an absolute necessity. They require a UVB or full spectrum light in order to properly digest the nutrition they need from their food, and this light should be on 12 hours a day during the daytime. Warmth is also required. The temperature inside the habitat during the day should be in the mid 80sF and at night in the upper 70sF. They are omnivorous eating both plant and meat.. Small to medium crickets or small meal worms are what you will need for the meat supply, and should be offered twice a week. Fruit flavored baby food on a shallow plastic jar lid offered once a week and removed when darkening will work well for the plant matter. As with the true chameleons they will not find stagnant or non moving water well, so the best thing is to use a drip system so that the water drips down onto leave whether silk or natural such as philodendrons. Place a drip system on the inside side of the tank, dripping onto leaves and have soft live moss underneath the leaves. You should also mist the tank once a day with tap water which has been left sitting open over night to allow chlorine... to evaporate out of it.

      The best substrate is reptile bark with sphagnum moss on top kept moist by the drip system and daily misting. During breeding season they will lay their eggs in the moss so it must be kept moist but not soaked.

      These are NOT lizards that can be handled well or easily. They are very fast, and very nervous. They can get away and lost very easily. When an anole gets away never grab it by its tail because they will break off, and do not grow back well, always try to grab the animal by its body. Also this is not a species with long lives, normally 1-5 years in captivity.

     Beginners can learn a lot about the necessary care of various other reptiles by keeping anoles successfully though because so many other reptiles come from rain forest type environments and have similar temperature and humidity requirements.

     On a side note: If the habitat is correct and there are both male and female animals in it then do not be surprised to find eggs in it during the breeding season. It is usually best to simply leave the eggs where they are. IF they hatch when you see baby lizards in the tank catch them and remove them to one of their own set up in the same way until they are of sufficient size that the adults will not be able to eat them. Baby anoles should be fed pin head crickets and fruit flies, along with fruit baby food.

Contributed to "Colored Lands News" by: Tom Walsh

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